Paddling the Salish Sea 80 Trips: Mountaineers Books

Showing posts with label Mountaineers Books. Show all posts

5/12/20

New Kayaking Puget Sound Facebook Group!

I've just started a new Kayaking Puget Sound Facebook Group so you all can post trip ideas, trip reports, boat or board reviews or for sale items and any other related paddling questions.

Open to all human powered paddling craft - SUP, rowers, kayaks, canoe and prone.

Ask to Join here..
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1322209787977756/

Deception Pass

2/29/20

Federal Maritime Quarantine Station for Puget Sound opens at Diamond Point in Nov 1893

At the time of writing this, the covid-19, otherwise called Coronavirus is in the news and beginning to span to globe. With that, I remembered about the quarantine station on Diamond Point in the late 19th century. Diamond Point is Trip #37 in the book.

Diamond Point is also in the news as adjacent Miller Peninsula State Park will be expanding quite a bit fairly soon. Read more from the Wa Trails Association

Here's some words from the History Link article on the quarantine station..

This essay made possible by:
The State of Washington
Washington State Department of Archeology and Historic Preservation.

In November 1893, the Federal Marine Quarantine Station for Puget Sound opens at Diamond Point, located at the northeastern tip of Clallam County across Discovery Bay from Port Townsend. The Quarantine Station provides disinfection services for vessels wishing to enter Puget Sound, and an isolation hospital for passengers found to be suffering from or suspected of carrying infectious disease. The facility will grow from three to 27 buildings

over the course of its 43 operational years.

A "Pest House" for People

Dr. B. S. Conover, previously in charge of quarantine services at the Port Townsend Marine Hospital, was the establishing physician. After a few months he was succeeded by Dr. William G. Stimpson.

The site of the quarantine station, now Diamond Point but then known as Clallam Point, was part of a military reservation established by President Andrew Johnson (1808-1875) in 1866 and dissolved in 1870. The Diamond Point land was then privately owned until 1892, when the federal government purchased 156 acres on which to build the quarantine station.

The Quarantine Hospital was an adjunct of the Port Townsend Marine Hospital. The By Juan de

Fuca's Strait

Marine Hospital at Port Townsend was founded by Dr. Samuel M. McCurdy (1805-1865) in 1855 to provide medical services to seamen. Isolation facilities were primitive: Sailors with contagious diseases were isolated in a "pest-house." James G. McCurdy describes this isolation facility in .... READ MORE..

Rob Casey is author of Kayaking Puget Sound and the San Juan Islands, 60 Trips and Stand Up Paddling Flat Water to Surf and Rivers, both by Mountaineers Books. He owns Salmon Bay Paddle a SUP school in Seattle. Get in touch: rob@salmonbaypaddle.com

Paddle to Kinney Point on Marrowstone Island

Two years ago while training for the SEVENTY48 I joined fellow crazy paddlers, PT resident Bandon Davis and Seattle friend Sean Nordquist in paddling in PT Canal.

Launching from the boat ramp beach at Port Hadlock, we enjoyed flying down the canal using the ebb then paddled around the south end of Marrowstone Island to Kinney Point. Trip #34

It was low tide so aside from our fins hitting sand a few times we enjoyed the marine life 2-3' below our feet. I remember over dressing for the unusually warm early Spring day.

At Kinney Point (see pics) we landed and explored the WWTA Cascadia Marine Trail site up the hill. There was a bench on a forested medium bluff overlooking the beach and a few forested tent sites. Looked like a great off the beaten path spot.

We paddled back after a bit and found enough eddies for eddy hopping our way back up the ebb current. Brandon took the west side and we both found a good options.

In the pic, Brandon and I have his 14' stitch and glue SUPs with internal storage. He has since designed 18'x26" carbon SUPs with storage, I think available only by request. Brandon is available at Turn Point Design in PT.

The currents in PT canal are tricky and not a clear ebb and flood per other flows nearby. Make sure to check local current and cruising guides to time it right. The Portage isn't bad if you have to!

8/17/17

3 NW Paddling Getaways to Escape the Weekend Crowds

Looking to getaway but not sit in long ferry lines then get to your supposed remote campsite to find 30 tents already there? Here's 3 paddle-in destinations to really get away...

1. Marrowstone Island /Trips 34 and 35.
Just across the bay from Port Townsend, this off the beaten path island is one of the least visited State Parks in the State. On hot summer weekends, the Cascadia Marine Trail campsite adjacent to the standard campsite should be free of other paddlers. Then slip into the park and/or paddle it's quiet shores to escape the masses.

The park is also home to Fort Flagler, a 1890's era harbor defense fort with an extensive bunker system to explore as well as 200' cliffs overlooking Admiralty Inlet, Whidbey and Port Townsend.

Strait of Juan de Fuca

Watch for currents of Marrowstone Point by the Light House. Smart planning with the currents can make it a fun adventure. Use Starpath's Puget Sound Currents to see how current work there. The app Deep Zoom is another tool for understanding local currents.

The island can be accessed by driving there or paddling from Port Townsend, Port Hadlock, Oak Bay Park or for the hardcore, from Whidbey.

2. Burrows Island, Anacortes. Trip #29
Burrows Island is 10 minute paddle from Skyline Marina in Anacortes. The campsite at Alice Bight is about 5-10 min further. The island is undeveloped short of the historic light house on it's west side. Trails circumnavigate the island for exploring it's very uncrowded rugged shores.

The island is a 1.5hr drive from Seattle with no ferry to Anacortes, then to Skyline Marina. Park in the long term marina parking along Cabana Lane. Then access the beach on the marina's west side where the road ends (below a house perched on a embankment / across from the big boat storage facility).

The Cascadia Marine Trail campsite has the best vault toilet in the region with a nice view as well! Alice Bight feels like SE Alaska, really a nice spot and a beautiful bay.

Watch for tidal currents during the crossing as well as fast moving power boats. If you like surfing standing waves and boat wakes, this can be a fun spot.

3. Skagit Island. Trip #27.
Close to Burrows Island, Skagit is on the other side of Deception Pass on Similk Bay. The Cascadia Marine Trail campsite rests on an shell midden (native garbage dump) that can be seen the embankment (shells and stuff). Enjoy views of Deception Pass, nearby Hope Island and Fidalgo Island.

Currents can run between the island and Kiket Island to the east. Use your tide/current guide to plan your trip. Walk the island and/or paddle over to Hope Island State Park for additional exploring.

Access from Fidalgo Island at Snee-oosh Point (about 1mile), or via Whidbey's Ala Spit, Cornet Bay, or run through Deception Pass on the flood for the best approach. Park at Bowman Bay.

2 Bonus Options for the adventurous...

Guerilla Camping.
This means camping in non designated spots along the banks of Puget Sound. There's hundreds of miles of undeveloped shoreline under bluffs, cliffs and remote beaches. Use Google Earth to explore the shore and/or play by ear and stop when you find a good place to end the day. Avoid backyards. Years ago, a friend while returning from Ketchikan on his kayak, camped in Carkeek Park. But that was 20+ years ago, I'm not sure I'd want to do that today!

Strait of Juan de Fuca - 2 Options..
-Launch in Port Angeles and paddle west past the Elwha River and Freshwater Bay camp at the Crescent Beach RV Park in Crescent Bay or at Salt Creek Recreational Area. Contact the RV park before landing there as they love to keep people off the beach. Landing at the county park may require portaging your gear up some rocks by Tongue Point. Check each location before going.

Crescent Bay in Salt Creek is a surf area so only enter on a small or no swell if you don't have surf skills. Tongue Point can get gnarly with waves crashing on it.

Salt Creek

-Launch from PA or from Salt Creek and paddle west to Whiskey Creek Resort in Joyce. This is a short paddle from Salt Creek but enjoy sea caves, arches, 500' cliffs and an odd metal door carved below that cliff. Epic paddle I've done a few times.

*Whiskey Creek was recently purchased by a new owner, so call to check their status and book a cabin or camping spot prior to arrival. Their cabins are right on the Strait, powered only by propane. No website, # only. 1385 Whiskey Creek Beach Rd, Port Angeles, WA 98363 / Phone: (360) 928-3567

*Guerilla camping along the Strait is possible but be ready to get up early if needed. Much of it is DNR land, some timber land.

Get my book to better plan your trip!

LRob Casey is author of Kayaking Puget Sound and the San Juan Islands, 60 Trips and Stand Up Paddling Flat Water to Surf and Rivers, both by Mountaineers Books. He owns Salmon Bay Paddle a SUP school in Seattle. Get in touch: rob@salmonbaypaddle.com

3/2/17

Beach Restoration of the Old Mill Site at Port Gamble - Trip #32

Old School view

Last time I drove on Highway 104 through Port Gamble, I got pretty excited to see that the old mill site is undergoing a transformation into a natural looking beach. A search resulted in info that the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife (WDFW) will fund the restoration via a grant. See Below for details... (paragraph copied from here)

Once a big mill town owned by Pope and Talbot, the now restored charming town of Port Gamble is a roadside attraction for those driving to and from the Hood Canal Bridge in Kitsap County. A cafe, kayak store and a few other shops give visitors are good stop from traveling. I used to stop there to let the dog run on the big cemetery hill before or after long ferry waits at Kingston.
Trip #32 in the book

KITSAP COUNTY

Before Restoration

Teekalet and Port Gamble Restoration ($1,500,000)
Grant funding will be provided to the Port Gamble S’Klallam Tribe to work with Pope Resources and the Washington Department of Ecology to purchase the development rights of property at Port Gamble Bay and develop a restoration plan to restore coastal processes in the bay. The restoration plan, once implemented, will remove a significant portion of existing jetty, fill and rip rap to restore beach habitat. The restoration will enhance a toxics cleanup project at the mill site and bay.
Phase: Acquisition and design
Sponsor: Port Gamble S’Klallam Tribe
Contact: Roma Call (360) 297-9687

Other Puget Sound Restoration Projects

Feb 2017

Learn more about my book Kayaking Puget Sound and the San Juans, 60 Trips. I also offer SUP and Kayak lessons available throughout the year at Salmon Bay Paddle. Questions about paddling on the Salish Sea, give me a holler anytime at rob@salmonbaypaddle.com or 206-465-7167

Support the Washington Water Trails Association and the Cascadia Marine Trail. The wwta works to create and protect access for paddlers on Puget Sound as well as provide an extensive network of over 60 paddle-in camping sites - www.wwta.org

2/6/17

Portage - A Vashon Shortcut - Trip #11

Portage from Maury Island, Seattle & Mt Rainier in backgroun

If you're paddling down Puget Sound from Seattle to Vashon Island, there's a long way around Maury Island, (SE Vashon) and a short way. The long way is over 8 miles from Tramp Harbor to the south tip of the island.

By portaging from Tramp Harbor over Portage, a narrow isthmus separating Vashon Island from Maury Island, the route through Quartermaster Harbor is only 4 miles in protected water.

Portage is approx 200 yards wide at high tide. Watch for speedy traffic. In Joel Roger's Water Trail book, a classic read, NW paddling guide Joel is seen crossing Portage during his epic paddle from Olympia to Pt Roberts following the Cascade Marine Trail.

The Shomamish People used Portage not only to shorten trips but to catch birds. By raising 300' wide nets, they would catch birds passing through the narrow gap.

Looking to rent a SUP on Vashon? Fat Cat Paddle Boarding operates during the summer on the south side of the point.

Joel Rogers crossing Portage

1/9/17

Paddling Pillar Point on the Strait of Juan de Fuca

After the Mountaineers commissioned me to revise this book, I chatted with original author Randall Washbourne in Port Angeles. Like many, the book was my first introduction to where to paddle on Puget Sound and the Salish Sea. I still have my original copy, a bit worn but still in good shape with a few coffee stains.

When I told him that I had permission to add 10 trips, he suggested a few places, Pillar Point west of Port Angeles and Sooke Harbor on Vancouver Island. Sooke got in or the BC section of the book, but Pillar Point was just a tad bit too far west to be considered Puget Sound. I will on occasion post about other great places to paddle in the region that are not in the book.

Pillar Point, Clallam County
Pillar is on the windy Highway 112 (Scenic Byway) about 45 minutes past Port Angeles (35 miles). Head west on the 101 from 'PA' as locals call it, then in about 10 minutes, take the Highway 112 exit on the right. In a minute, you'll pass over the Elwha River, then in another 2 minutes, you'll see Place Road on the right. This is the best access to the Elwha River mouth. Keep following the 112 enjoying it's forest, pasture and Olympic Mountain views to the town of Joyce. The Joyce General Store is your last gas (and snack) stop until Clallam Bay, fuel up if you're low on supplies. The Blackberry Cafe down the road is also a goo stop for lunch and a blackberry shake. Also a fun stop in, especially if the owner is playing his guitar at the counter. Kids will love their massive supply of candy (though you may not).

Why 112 view of Pillar Point from above Deep Creek

Back on the road, continue down the 112 west of Joyce. The road will curve up into the hills past various clear-cuts then after about 15 minutes drop down to the beach to Twin, a nice spot to launch, crab or go smelt fishing. Also a great beach to poke around on. The 112 once again turns uphill into the woods, then again drops down in about 10 minutes to Deep Creek, another spot to get out and explore by foot or launch (watch reef if there's waves). There's parking along the road. Past Deep Creek, the 112 heads back up into clear cuts then in about 15 minutes, look for the Pillar Point County Park sign. Upon my last visit in summer of 2016, there was a fresh clearcut at the sign. Head down the one lane hill to the beach. There's lots of parking, an outhouse and a boat ramp. Also notice the 'Warning Contaminated Shellfish' signs. Check regs for updates for fishing here.

Facing the Strait, the Pysht River empties out into the pleasant shallow bay on your left (west) which can empty at lower tides. Across the bay one mile is a 5 story vertical rock, this is Pillar Point.

View from parking lot across to Pillar Pt

Explore the bay following the river channel up into the river mouth, a meandering Class 1 float into the Pysht River Conservation Area managed by the North Olympic Land Trust. You'll feel light upriver current, stronger with recent rains. Back into the bay, view intertidal life below your craft as you cross to Pillar Point. Park your boat/board along the shore to explore the rock and surrounding lands. If you're a long distance paddler, it's 7.4 miles to Slip Point and Clallam Bay along a rugged yet interesting shoreline with pocket beaches, surf below a tall bluff.

A PA local and former logger suggested we park our boats at the point then hike over the hill to a meadow which may have a large population of elk. You might do some research to see if this legal from a trespassing point of view. I believe the land is DNR or may below to the Pysht River Tree Farm (accessible via the 112 past the park's entry).

On a huge winter surf day about a decade ago when all other spots were blown out or going off bigger than what I prefer to surf, there were waist high waves coming in from the Point leading to the parking lot. These would've been long easy rides but we moved on to another spot down the road for a bit more size. The park is also a good place to take a break when coming back from or going to Neah Bay.

Get directions and more info on the park at the Clallam Bay park site.

Going to Neah Bay? You have two options, Highway 101 then the 113, or Highway 112 then the 113. We prefer the 112 for less traffic and it goes along the Strait providing paddling and surf options the entire route. The 101 has Lake Crescent which is worth the view but can be slow with summer tourist traffic. Check with WSDOT prior to departure for any travel alerts. These roads do go out on occasion, especially the 113.

Google Earth view of the bay (parking lot lower right)

Any questions give me a holler: salmonbaypaddle@gmail.com / 206.465.7167

Check out our Kayak and SUP classes in Seattle - Beginning to advanced instruction including freighter and tug wave surfing, coastal surfing, rivers and racing, plus PSUPA Certification.
Get the Book

12/15/16

Kayaking / Paddling Squaxin Island and South Puget Sound Trip #5

Craig Haelson paddling around the south side of Squaxin

When I first paddled South Puget Sound we came across an island that had to development and a seemingly virgin forest. Immediately, I wondered what Puget Sound looked like to the first explorers to the region in the late 1700's - or to the natives prior to white contact. Squaxin Island, which is Trip #5 in the book was that island. A Squaxin indian reservation, landing isn't allowed but exploring by water is ok and worth the trip.

Camp at nearby Hope Island (south) which can be accessed via Boston Harbor, Harstein Island and points west such as Shelton. Watch out for rips on the south side of the island and boat traffic in summer.

5/15/14

Paddling Eagle Harbor, Winslow - Bainbridge Island Trip 14

Eagle Harbor in Winslow - Bainbridge Island. Trip #14

Wing Pt

A great protected gunkhole with a lot of personality. I've seen surfable waves on the outside from ferries while only a few hundred yards inside it's usually super calm. Way up inside it dries out to a tide flat at low tide and is surrounded by interesting modern and some historic homes.

A great paddle if you're seeking a protected spot for windy days or fun exploring for a short day trip from Seattle.

Eagle Hbr looking west to east

3/24/14

Two Darrell Kirk Paddling Videos of Everett's Waterways - Trip 21

My neighbor and student Darrell Kirk does amazing videos of his explorations around Puget Sound and the West Coast. From the Saltine Sea to Ebey's Slough, here's two exploring the Everett, Wa waterfront.

Trip 22 -

Ship Graveyard. Many of these ships date to the 19th century and line the Snohomish River mouth in to Puget Sound.
http://vimeo.com/85328730

Adventure on Ebey & Steamboat Slough. Note to check tides here to avoid being caught high and dry in mud on lower tides.
http://vimeo.com/89457365

3/23/14

Explore middle Hood Canal - Paddle Trip #23

Dosewallips St Park, high tide (empties at low).

Warm water in summer, bucolic backwater views and great paddling best describe this section of Hood Canal. North of Hoodsport stretching to Quilcene, this curvy section of Highway 101 has many campgrounds, B&Bs, tucked away marinas, and oyster farms.

Trip #23 in the book.

Hamma Hamma river delta

Quilcene, WA

12/4/13

Kayaking & SUP Circumnavigation of Indian & Marrowstone Islands

Trip Report from Laura Prendergast of Pygmy Kayaks:

Mission accomplished! Griff and I paddled approximately 19.5 miles (according to google maps) in 6.5 hours around Marrowstone and Indian Island... a great way to spend Black Friday! No lines to buy things... just sea lions eating salmon, curious seals and porpoises surfacing.

Our route was mapped from Pygmy's HQ as I left from the Point Hudson Marina in Port Townsend. We experienced strong currents by the lighthouse on marrowstone. We followed the tide around perfectly, going clockwise with high tide at 12:30.

The route could also be broken into a two day trip using the WWTA Kinney Point campsite on the south end of Marrowstone. www.wwta.org

We were both paddling Pygmy Murrelets 4PD: Greenland Style Touring Kayaks http://www.pygmyboats.com/boats/murrelet-4PD-kayak-kit.html

In the book, Trip 34 & 35.

4/4/13

Paddling Seattle - Golden Gardens, Shilsole Bar to West Point Lighthouse - Trip #18 -

West Point at 30kts of Southerly Wind.

Sometimes the best paddle route is the one closest to where you live. A friend once told me that he got bored paddling on Shilshole Bay from Golden Gardens to the West Point Lighthouse at Discovery Park. For me, it's different every time, and I've been doing it nearly weekly for a decade.

6 Reasons Why I love paddling on Shilshole Bay:

Shilshole Bay

- I enjoy the light outgoing always present current below the Chittenden Locks. I can teach my SUP students to ferry across the current, use eddies to go upstream then get a sorta free float back downstream. After heavy rain eddy lines form behind obstructions giving myself and students practice in currents up to 4kts. Picturesque homes on stilts line the shores. Know anyone selling one - give me a holler! Note: SUPs aren't allowed to transit through the Locks.

- Freighters put off up to chest high (5') surfable waves across from Ray's Boathouse at low tides. We also surf tug waves in deep water offshore once a week. Wave faces can reach up to 6' with rides nearly 1/2 mile long. Read article on our surfing exploits in the Seattle Time, Here. I also surf behind most boats coming out of or going into the Locks. Learn to surf Freighter Waves

Tip: Give boaters the right of way and make eye contact before getting their wave.

- High wind days create fun conditions if you're into that sort of thing. North winds over 20 knots create surf at Meadow Point and at the mouth of Salmon Bay. Southerlies create surf on the south side of West Point and fun downwind conditions between the point and Golden Gardens. Friends and I have paddled in up to 41 knots, our limit.

Shilshole Bay, Seattle

- Wildlife. On every paddle I pass a section with a half dozen harbor seals who frolic below my board or kayak, or follow me around. Sea lions bark in the distance, and sea life dart below my water craft on clear days. Whale sighting are few.

- Shilshole Marina, nearly 1.7 miles long provides protected paddling about 350 days a year. I take my SUP students in there for calm water and to work on directional control weaving through the many channels and pathways. Tip: Slow down for each aisle opening in case a boat is coming out.

- Paddling to West Point. From my launch at the Elks Beach below the Locks, the lighthouse is about 1.7 miles. It looks easy but currents and back eddies can hinder your speed. A straight line to the lighthouse isn't always the easiest route. If there's an outgoing tide or strong southerly, the bay on the north side of the point becomes a big gyro or back eddy pushing current along shore to the point. Going point A to B would be bucking current the whole distance.

Webcam from a house on Magnolia: http://www.brichmond.com/webcam/mywebcam_loop.htm

2/8/13

Puget Sound Islands for Fitness Training Paddles

Lummi Island

Darrell Bedmark, a pro prone paddle boarder from Seattle who I regularly paddle with, mentioned that he was seeking trips where he could use to train for races. His hope was to find routes which are scenic and interesting rather than just a straight line or in our urban environment. I recommended the following..

Here's a few suggestions of cool places to paddle if you're seeking a challenging distance or water conditions...

- Squaxin Island (South Sound) - undeveloped and owned by the Squaxin Tribe. You can't land there but it's undeveloped shores is probably how Wilkes of Vancouver saw the Sound for the first time.

Marrowstone & Indian Islands

- Lummi Island (North Sound) - Off Bellingham Bay, Lummi is partially developed but very interesting with beach homes, reef fishing platforms on it's west side, and vertical cliffs on the south side. Expect tidal currents. Best launch is adjacent to the Squaxin Ferry terminal.

Squaxin Island, south side.

- Marrowstone Island & Indian Island (Port Townsend) - One of my favorites while skipping music camp classes to hide in Fort Flagler's bunkers in the late 70's. Both lands have sections of very calm protected water and exposed areas to tide rips, wind, and freighter waves. Check the book for details. Best launches are Oak Bay; Port Hadlock; Mystery Bay; Fort Flagler; East Beach.

Determine distances using Google Maps, marine charts or if you can find them, the SeaTrails maps (we think this company has closed).

Prone Paddling: Using a long narrow surf ski like surfboard powered by hand paddling on knees or chest.

Others...
- Vashon Island
- Harstene Island
- Anderson Island

BC:
- Pender Island
- Saturna Island
- Wallace Island

7/13/12

The Lion's Mane Jellyfish

In summer on Pacific NW saltwater waterways, you'll begin to see jellyfish appearing in large numbers. The two most common jellyfish are Moon Jellies, and the largest of the two is the Lion's Mane, (cyanea capillata).

More Info from National Geographic online..
"The world’s largest creatures reside in the ocean, and its depths are home to unusual species whose surprising proportions are unknown on land.

Here, an underwater view captures the billowing tentacles of a lion’s mane jellyfish. The most potent species of jellyfish, the lion’s mane can reach a diameter of 6.6 feet (2 meters) with tentacles topping 49 feet (15 meters)."

Here's one shot just below the surface in Dewatto Bay on Hood Canal in July. Camera: Oregon Scientific ATC9K.

6/23/12

Paddling Central & Eastern Wa - Guidebook

If you're thinking of planning a trip to paddle Central and Eastern Wa check out "Paddle Routes of the Inland Northwest." Authors Rich Landers and Dan Hansen have compiled a comprehensive guide not leaving any rock unturned. The book covers epic trips down the Palouse River, through the glacier flood carved canyons of Dry Falls, and venturing into Idaho and Montana.

Check it out here..Paddle Routes.

6/1/12

Kayaking Bremerton - Trip #13

Bremerton is a town of interesting Naval sights, old neighborhoods, and much like Seattle winding waterways and the bridges that connect the land together. The current can run fast through the Port Washington Narrows providing a free ride or uphill battle to those who aren't paying attention.

Trip #13 originates 13 miles to the west in Eagle Harbor on Bainbridge. The trip takes you through Rich Passage to Bremerton.