Strait of Juan de Fuca Coastal Exploring

One of my all time favorite paddles is the cliff section between Freshwater Bay and Salt Creek Recreation Area, on the Olympic Peninsula.  

20 minutes west of Port Angeles, you can access this section from either the Freshwater Bay Boat Ramp (Freshwater Bay Road) or via Salt Creek Rec Area (Crescent Beach). 

The route takes you under 300' tall rock cliffs and through protected pocket beaches each with their own personality. Whether at low or high tide there's always something to see. 

There's quite a bit of current off shore, so tuck in around the rocks when exploring, then take the outer water, about 50' out back to your car providing the current and/or wind is running in that direction.  

For sups, I recommend a waist quick release leash (on PFD) as you feet will be caught in thick kelp beds or under rocks if you fall. Quick release is a good thing if needed. 

Helmets are an option if the swell is up. Unless you're planning on rock gardening, avoid a W or NW swell over 5'.  Launching from Salt Creek, a popular surfing spot, can be tricky if you don't have surf skills. 

I can provide surf and coastal paddling training for both kayak and sup if needed. 

Available all year.  Trip #41 in the book.  

My clients exploring a cave

Humpback in Crescent Bay

Me exploring a pocket beach cliff

Rob Casey is author of Kayaking Puget Sound and the San Juan Islands, 60 Trips and Stand Up Paddling Flat Water to Surf and Rivers, both by Mountaineers Books.  He owns Salmon Bay Paddle a SUP school in Seattle. 

Removing Marine Debris near the Elwha River

Over Labor Day weekend, a friends and I was on a beach walk along Freshwater Bay beach, west of the Elwha River mouth near Port Angeles.

We spotted a large block thing floating in the water just off shore. Looking at it with binoculars we realized it was a piece of a dock.  It soon landed on the beach and with a closer look, we realized it was mostly styrofoam and lined with concrete and metal wire.

This type of styrofoam breaks up on our local beaches leaving not only small chunks but also very difficult to remove tiny bits of bead foam. I've seen this foam in kelp beds, tide pools and on many of our NW beaches.

I immediately contacted the Feiro Marine Science Center in Port Angeles to find a solution for removing the dock.  After a few days, they figured a solution to cut up the foam and remove it manually.

This week, three volunteers armed with plastic bags, plastic sheeting, cutting tools and a wagon worked for a few hours to remove the foam.  Here's the photos of their efforts.

View more photos and info plus comments on my Instagram page @salmonbaypaddle

Donate to Feiro Marine Science Center which runs a small aquarium and marine education programs in downtown Port Angeles.

Thanks to these volunteers at Feiro!

Rob Casey is author of Kayaking Puget Sound and the San Juan Islands, 60 Trips and Stand Up Paddling Flat Water to Surf and Rivers, both by Mountaineers Books.  He owns Salmon Bay Paddle a SUP school in Seattle.  Get in touch: rob@salmonbaypaddle.com

Elwha River Mouth - Washington's Newest Beach (Seattle Times article) Trip #40

I've had the opportunity to watch the Elwha River dam removals over the past few years. I surfed the river mouth pre-removal when the beach was cobble. Over the years, soft sediment began to not only cover the cobble but also extend the beach into the Strait several hundred feet. The sediment changed the river mouth from shallow reef style waves preferred by short boarders to sandy beach waves better suited for paddlers. Pre-removal, I was able to paddle up the river mouth nearly a quarter mile to a class 2 rapid, now the sediment has choked the mouth to where it's nearly impossible to make that trip.  The sediment is so thick that you lose sight of your hand just below the water's surface.

Paddling the mouth is best at high tides when you can skim over shallow submerged sections of the delta. At low tides, you can paddle around the entire delta.

Be watchful of waves. The Strait can be flat calm, or not. Despite the differences in wave types, large waves can break on the west and north sides of the delta at any tide level. If you prefer a calm no wave day, use the following sites to forecast swell 4' or less, and no or little wind. A NW or W swell over 4' can deliver substantial waves to the delta. Or a strong W or NE wind (over 15kts). Use surf etiquette if other surfers are present.

Launch from Place Road (right fork) but be prepared for a 10 minute walk on gravel to the beach. Check out the book for additional launches. Trip #40

Read a great article on the post-release Elwha delta.. (posted 2/14/17)

Surf Forecast Sites I Use:
Surfwater.org - PNW surf forecasts
NOAA - Puget Sound to WA Coast Marine Forecast
WindAlert - Real time wind data

Looking west towards Freshwater Bay and Striped Peak  (courtesy of Doug MacDonald) / Seattle Times

Learn more about my book Kayaking Puget Sound and the San Juans, 60 Trips. I also offer SUP and Kayak lessons available throughout the year at Salmon Bay Paddle. Questions about paddling on the Salish Sea, give me a holler anytime at salmonbaypaddle@gmail.com or 206-465-7167

Support the Washington Water Trails Association and the Cascadia Marine Trail. The wwta works to create and protect access for paddlers on Puget Sound as well as provide an extensive network of over 60 paddle-in camping sites - www.wwta.org

Searching for the Metal Door and WW2 Bunkers in a Cliff on the Strait of Juan de Fuca

Paddling friends over the years have mentioned a weird metal door in a cliff near Crescent Beach and Salt Creek Rec Area on the Strait of Juan de Fuca.  The door was said to be on Agate Point, on the west side of Crescent Bay.

In the same area, several pillboxes and gun batteries were built in WW2 to fend off any incoming enemy fleets. Salt Creek Rec area has a drive-through emplacement from a 16' cannon on the cliff above Crescent Beach. I head read recently that several pillboxes and possibly larger emplacements were built extending from Port Angeles to Cape Flattery. Online research of 1940's era Army documents states that an emplacement was built on Agate Point. Google Earth aerial images didn't indicate obvious sign of the bunker so, with a window in my schedule and low surf, I decided to go look for it and the weird metal door.

I rarely allow myself time to search for these things as the launch areas are part of a surfing beach, so usually I end up surfing when I see good waves versus paddling beyond the surf to go explore. On flat water days, I tend to go east of Salt Creek leading sup tours from the east side of the bay past Salt Creek towards Freshwater Bay (or from Freshwater wast towards Salt Creek).

Launching from the Salt Creek RV Park through 4' close-out surf, I paddled beyond the impact zone into the middle of the bay headed towards Agate Point. The middle of the bay was interesting with heightened waves coming in, probably due to a reef below. A 15kt east wind helped my progress towards the point. On the north side of the point, there was a curious hole in the 50' cliff about 1/3rd of the way up above what appeared to be the high tide line. I thought it was the door as it was pretty deep and not very natural shaped. The swell was about 5'-7' and pushing hard up against the waist high rocks below the cliff. No a good place to land, would be better to explore on a flat day.

I continued around the point knowing (from aerial photos) that there was 2 pocket beaches to explore. Several bald eagles soared above and two landed on a cliff above me. An otter slipped into the water from a mussel covered rock reminding me of the native Salish saying 'when the tide is out, the table is set.' Despite being a lower tide, the swell was breaking inside on big rocks near the beaches so again I continued along as landing would cost me a lot of ding repairs. I spotted a cool channel with surge firing through that would be fun to shoot through but there was so much clapotis (reverb waves) and being solo, I passed that one by.

On the south side of the point, there's a nice arch and interesting rocks leading up to the cliffs above. Wind sculpted trees reminded me of the Oregon Coast. An aerial image showed a flat cleared area on the top of the cliff that facing west that could've been a bunker site, but nothing human made could be seen. I was looking for clear areas, maybe a drainage pipe from the cliff or if lucky, a section of overgrown concrete sticking out. Not knowing if it's legal to land plus, heavy surf on the rocks below and a steep cliff with little access up kept me from climbing up.

Weird door in rock, sea cave to the right around the rock

By this time I had view of the bay on the west side of the point which has a crescent shaped steep sandy beach with a weird looking house beyond. Knowing the house was part of the private area, I stayed offshore.  Just to west is a 400' (?) rock cliff jutting straight up to a line of trees. Curious about being below the cliff and looking up, I paddled over. About 200 yards from the beach yet on the cliff, I noticed a hole. Paddling closer, I realized this was the weird hole in the cliff. The door was gone but the hole was rectangular shaped with a rusted metal frame and a dribble of water coming out. Again, the seas were crashing on large rocks below the door, so landing today wasn't an option. I really wanted to look inside.  Perplexed why there was a perfectly shaped rock hole in a 400' cliff face, I poked around and found a sea cave about 25' west. I assumed the door and cave were linked but why would there be a door there? Pretty odd. I sat floating offshore trying to figure it out but the east wind was building, so I reluctantly turned around to head back. I wondered if the hole was related Port Crescent, the former logging site in the area.

Google Earth view. Door at
far left white arrow. 

After rounding Agate Point and heading back to Crescent Bay, I found myself paddling against the east wind and chose to sit down and paddle kayak and canoe style back to my launch. While still sitting, I spotted a few nice swells and rode one in sticking my hand in the wave face to slow the 14' board down for an easy landing.

Tips for Launching on Crescent Bay - 
A family owns the beach from the west side of Salt Creek to the Crescent Beach RV Park, to the west side of Agate Point. Much of this trip was private property, so even if it was calm, I'd be reluctant to land and explore further. Note that the family is very serious about trespassing and will try to prosecute you if you resist. I've seen it before with surfers and once chatted to a local Sheriff officer who responded a call regarding trespassing. A decade ago, a friend and I landed on their beach in heavy seas and high wind for our own safety. A woman came out and yelled at us and followed us, taking our license plates #'s (in the public lot) down threatening us with criminal trespassing. In summer a man will watch kids in Salt Creek (huh?) and direct them to the country park side of the creek. One advantage to the family owning the bay is that it's keeping it from being developed.

While most in the State own land above the high tide line, these folks bought the old logging town rights (Port Crescent) and own beach rights, even under the water to the middle of the bay. If you see some one with a walki-talki, best to get back in the water and leave quickly.

That said, at the Crescent Beach RV Park, you can pay them $9 (check or cc over $10) and use the beach for the day (or camp overnight for more). Many friends do park there to access the bay and campsite's showers and a laundry.  I usually park in the free Salt Creek Rec Area lot down the road (where Salt Creek comes out). On this trip I paid and launched at the RV park to save myself a half mile of paddling to the point (due to my schedule).

Know how to Surf?
The beach can be flat or have 15' close-out waves breaking. The Strait is interesting that way. You can use surf forecast sites to check for ocean swell before launching. If you see a 5' or more W or NW swell coming in, think about a heavy surf launch vs a calm lake like start. In the surf, you can time your launch waiting for a lull in the breakers then darting out (and back).  I did noticed that the beach by the sea stack and county park was breaking less steep than the RV Park beach.  If you're paddling a large kayak or sup respect the surfers by staying clear of them by about 3 boat lengths.  Or take my sup or kayak surfing classes to learn how to surf and launch through surf for trips.

Paddling around Agate Point was interesting with large swell coming in (always look out towards sea) blowing up on the rocks inside. I love that but if you're not experienced in big water, wait for a flat day.  Given the trespassing issues and remote area, I'd want to avoid a paddling incident here.

Camping: at the RV Park and Salt Creek Rec Area.

Getting ready to go at Crescent RV Park

Equipment Used: 14' Imagine Surf Connector SUP, Gath helmet, MTI Cascade PFD, 5.5/4mm RipCurl wetsuit, NRS Desperado Shoe booties with NRS Expedition Socks (due to 30F temps), ProBolt Accent Paddle, SuperFlex rubber SurfCo. fin, VHF and Glacier Gloves. Note: I attach my leash to my PFD to avoid getting stuck in heavy kelp beds.

UPDATE - 1/20/17
Research points to the hole as being a manganese mine, popular in the area during the late 19th century. And there is a bunker above the hole on the 400' cliff accessible via the DNR road nearby. 

Helpful Links:
Aerial Photo Sites for Trip Planning
How to Forecast Surf
NOAA Marine Forecast

Any questions give me a holler: salmonbaypaddle@gmail.com / 206.465.7167

Check out our Kayak and SUP classes in Seattle - Beginning to advanced instruction including freighter and tug wave surfing, coastal surfing, rivers and racing, plus PSUPA Certification.
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Paddling Pillar Point on the Strait of Juan de Fuca

After the Mountaineers commissioned me to revise this book, I chatted with original author Randall Washbourne in Port Angeles.  Like many, the book was my first introduction to where to paddle on Puget Sound and the Salish Sea. I still have my original copy, a bit worn but still in good shape with a few coffee stains.

When I told him that I had permission to add 10 trips, he suggested a few places, Pillar Point west of Port Angeles and Sooke Harbor on Vancouver Island. Sooke got in or the BC section of the book, but Pillar Point was just a tad bit too far west to be considered Puget Sound.  I will on occasion post about other great places to paddle in the region that are not in the book.

Pillar Point, Clallam County
Pillar is on the windy Highway 112 (Scenic Byway) about 45 minutes past Port Angeles (35 miles). Head west on the 101 from 'PA' as locals call it, then in about 10 minutes, take the Highway 112 exit on the right. In a minute, you'll pass over the Elwha River, then in another 2 minutes, you'll see Place Road on the right. This is the best access to the Elwha River mouth. Keep following the 112 enjoying it's forest, pasture and Olympic Mountain views to the town of Joyce. The Joyce General Store is your last gas (and snack) stop until Clallam Bay, fuel up if you're low on supplies. The Blackberry Cafe down the road is also a goo stop for lunch and a blackberry shake. Also a fun stop in, especially if the owner is playing his guitar at the counter. Kids will love their massive supply of candy (though you may not).

Why 112 view of Pillar Point from above Deep Creek

Back on the road, continue down the 112 west of Joyce. The road will curve up into the hills past various clear-cuts then after about 15 minutes drop down to the beach to Twin, a nice spot to launch, crab or go smelt fishing. Also a great beach to poke around on.  The 112 once again turns uphill into the woods, then again drops down in about 10 minutes to Deep Creek, another spot to get out and explore by foot or launch (watch reef if there's waves). There's parking along the road. Past Deep Creek, the 112 heads back up into clear cuts then in about 15 minutes, look for the Pillar Point County Park  sign. Upon my last visit in summer of 2016, there was a fresh clearcut at the sign. Head down the one lane hill to the beach. There's lots of parking, an outhouse and a boat ramp. Also notice the 'Warning Contaminated Shellfish' signs. Check regs for updates for fishing here.

Facing the Strait, the Pysht River empties out into the pleasant shallow bay on your left (west) which can empty at lower tides. Across the bay one mile is a 5 story vertical rock, this is Pillar Point.

View from parking lot across to Pillar Pt

Explore the bay following the river channel up into the river mouth, a meandering Class 1 float into the Pysht River Conservation Area managed by the North Olympic Land Trust. You'll feel light upriver current, stronger with recent rains.  Back into the bay, view intertidal life below your craft as you cross to Pillar Point.  Park your boat/board along the shore to explore the rock and surrounding lands. If you're a long distance paddler, it's 7.4 miles to Slip Point and Clallam Bay along a rugged yet interesting shoreline with pocket beaches, surf below a tall bluff.

A PA local and former logger suggested we park our boats at the point then hike over the hill to a meadow which may have a large population of elk. You might do some research to see if this legal from a trespassing point of view.  I believe the land is DNR or may below to the Pysht River Tree Farm (accessible via the 112 past the park's entry).

On a huge winter surf day about a decade ago when all other spots were blown out or going off bigger than what I prefer to surf, there were waist high waves coming in from the Point leading to the parking lot. These would've been long easy rides but we moved on to another spot down the road for a bit more size. The park is also a good place to take a break when coming back from or going to Neah Bay.

Get directions and more info on the park at the Clallam Bay park site.

Going to Neah Bay?  You have two options, Highway 101 then the 113, or Highway 112 then the 113. We prefer the 112 for less traffic and it goes along the Strait providing paddling and surf options the entire route. The 101 has Lake Crescent which is worth the view but can be slow with summer tourist traffic.  Check with WSDOT prior to departure for any travel alerts. These roads do go out on occasion, especially the 113.

Google Earth view of the bay (parking lot lower right)

Any questions give me a holler: salmonbaypaddle@gmail.com / 206.465.7167

Check out our Kayak and SUP classes in Seattle - Beginning to advanced instruction including freighter and tug wave surfing, coastal surfing, rivers and racing, plus PSUPA Certification.
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Exploring Freshwater Bay on the Olympic Peninsula - Trips 40 & 41

I was first introduced to Freshwater Bay in my early kayak days via the WA Kayak Club while on day trips and a few rock gardening classes with Deb Volturno and George Gronseth.  From day 1, I knew this was a place I'd be going back to often.  Now I lead SUP tours there mostly in summer months.

A 3 hour drive from Seattle and just past Port Angeles, FWB as we call it for short, has good conditions 99% of the time. The boat ramp put-in is in boating terms, a good gunk hole, meaning it's very protected from most wind and swell. A sandy bottom and shallow for some time, makes it a great launch for paddlers. We generally prefer to launch adjacent to the busy boat ramp on the beach.  

Routes:

If a wild weather or mellow day, you can have plenty of fun exploring the interior of the bay by the boat ramp, with it's tide pools and rock formations on the west side of the bay to the erratic boulder right of the boat ramp. You can also head east into FWB and in a few miles you'll hit the Elwha River mouth (watch for surf).  In summer there's a one mile long kelp bed in the bay. Usually quiet from other paddlers and don't expect to see anyone on the beach.  

For experienced paddlers, take a left at Observatory Point and Bachelor Rock (seastack below) threading yourself through the reef (SUPs-recommend kneeling). Or go round the rock.  Swell does get in there and on an ebb the currents can rip strongly around the rock. Follow the coastline for one mile or the 6 miles to Salt Creek Rec Area. Explore the pocket beaches, amazing rock formations, caves, arches and abundant sea life below you.  There's a stinky seal rookery about 3 miles west and Hidden Cove, another gunk hole about 2 miles from Salt Creek.  

Alternatively, you can launch form Salt Creek, go over or around Tongue Point and start your journey from the west, going east.  

Avoid if you can't handle waves, swell, high wind or don't have endurance for strong current. It can be glassy calm or gnarly.  The water is cold most of the year do dress for immersion. SUPs, I recommend a rubber fin to avoid getting stuck in the extensive kelp beds and to better explore the rock shoreline.  Also a helmet for kayakers, not much fun to capsize in shallow reefs. 

The section can be cold too as the sun rarely gets over he big cliffs aside from in summer.  

Read more in my book, Trips 40 & 41

Learn more about my book Kayaking Puget Sound and the San Juans, 60 Trips. I also offer SUP and Kayak lessons available throughout the year at Salmon Bay Paddle. Questions about paddling on the Salish Sea, give me a holler anytime at salmonbaypaddle@gmail.com or 206-465-7167

Support the Washington Water Trails Association and the Cascadia Marine Trail. The wwta works to create and protect access for paddlers on Puget Sound as well as provide an extensive network of over 60 paddle-in camping sites - www.wwta.org

Paddling the Elwha River Mouth, 11/11/13

The Elwha's changing fast, or really morphing. in December of 2012 an expansive sandbar developed off the mouth several hundred feet. In September of 2013, another large section again developed off the mouth further extending the river delta. Sea birds have been taking advantage of the various offshore sandbars in large numbers.

I've been exploring the river mouth every few weeks during the pre, during and now post dam removal.  Here's a few more pics of paddle there today. I found the small surfable standing waves in the river mouth on a no swell day in the Strait.

Looking north towards the Strait. 

Looking upstream over smalls standing waves.

Dam release sediment line in Freshwater Bay.

Surf in the San Juans?

For years, I've heard for San Juan Island locals talk of catching surf off the islands' southern sections.  I've spoken to two longboarders and one surf kayaker who have confirmed this.  Last summer a prone paddler boarder friend said he caught a really long ride on a waist high wave in False Bay.  And it's not surprising given it's location near the eastern opening of the Strait of Juan de Fuca which also delivers surfable swells to the west side of Whidbey Island.  For those not familiar with NW surfing, the shorelines along both the Canadian and US side of the Strait have been popular surfing spots for years.  For locals, waves must be a relief as getting to traditional surfing areas in BC or WA from the island is quite the trek.  San Juan Island is Trip #52 in the book.

The image below is from the SW tip of San Juan Island in September.

Learn more about my book Kayaking Puget Sound and the San Juans, 60 Trips. I also offer SUP and Kayak lessons available throughout the year at Salmon Bay Paddle. Questions about paddling on the Salish Sea, give me a holler anytime at salmonbaypaddle@gmail.com or 206-465-7167

Support the Washington Water Trails Association and the Cascadia Marine Trail. The wwta works to create and protect access for paddlers on Puget Sound as well as provide an extensive network of over 60 paddle-in camping sites - www.wwta.org

Discover Paddling Freshwater Bay to the Elwha River, Trip #40

Freshwater Bay going west.

A new trip in the book, I've been paddling from Freshwater Bay (aka FWB) to the Elwha River for a few years.  Located along the Strait of Juan de Fuca west of Port Angeles, this trip offers on calm days a beautiful paddle through several miles of kelp beds and undeveloped shoreline.  We rated the trip Exposed, as it can also get quite rough mostly towards the Elwha end, so strong paddling experience is required to do the whole trip. The one way distance Freshwater Bay boat ramp to the Elwha River mouth is 4 miles.

Launching at the Freshwater Bay boat ramp, a Clallam County Park, there's plenty of parking for day use only.  Paddle east either along the shoreline or 'Bee' line it to the Elwha straight across the bay. If you choose not to go to the Elwha, the bay provides lots of exploring and can be done so with less experience on mellow days. You'll experience different conditions there - either super mellow or huge seas requiring expert paddling skills. The bay can get rough on northerly winds, and I've actually surfed waist high waves at the FWB boat ramp.  Friends who guide kayakers through there for Adventures Through Kayaking in Port Angeles, talk of a bay wide gyro or eddy formed off Observatory Point on the west end of the bay from westerly swell or westerly winds. If you feel you're 'bucking' or going against current - adjust your strategy or course direction to get out of the current.

Jory paddling the Elwha.

The Elwha River's two dams are currently being removed as part of the largest dam removal project in North America.  Many hope the sediment built up behind the dams will flow to the mouth rebuilding it's now rocky beaches. Watch the dam removal process in real time from web cams, Here.

The river's mouth can like FWB be either glassy or quite rough.  Surfers who love big hollow fast waves surf here.  Waves break in very shallow water as little as 3'.  If you wipe out, you're falling on knee high rocks.  I've seen 6' faces come out of completely flat water off the mouth - scary!  The surfing vibe here can be quite 'local' and rather aggressive, so make sure you know surfer's etiquette and can negotiate large surf in whatever craft you're paddling.  A rip can occur off the mouth on the ebb - remember to paddle perpendicular to the current to escape the pull out to the Strait.

On small or now swell days surfers usually aren't present and you can paddle right up the mouth with ease.  About an eighth of a mile up stream, you'll encounter a small class 2 rapid which be surfed at higher water levels.  Stay off the shore on the east side of the river as it's Lower Klallam Tribal land and is often enforced.

In May, the Da Fuca Downwinder, a 13 mile paddling race goes from the boat ramp at FWB to Port Angeles. Click HERE for race info.

(Pre-dam removal) Mouth of the Elwha on a calm day.

Prior to launching for this trip, check the ocean swell size and direction.  Also check wind direction and tides.  The Strait winds goes most often East or West, and in winter North or Northwesterly.  Large ocean swell can seriously affect your paddle, particularly closer to the Elwha.  Summer low tides at the FWB boat ramp can mean a long haul to the water.  Low tides at the Elwha are great for exploring the gravel river channels at the mouth.

Alternative Trip: #41 FWB to the Salt Creek Rec Area.  Exposed.

A few sites to look at to help prepare for your trip:
Surf WA
NOAA La Perouse Buoy at the mouth of the Strait.  Check for swell size.
NOAA Marine Forecast for WA State.  Check for 'Central Strait' wind conditions.
Surf Etiquette - There's several sites available, here's one to get acquainted with.
Adventures Through Kayaking - This Port Angeles kayaking shop offers tours of FWB.

Getting There:  Drive west from Port Angeles on Hwy 101. Take the Hwy 112 junction (at the Junction Roadhouse) right and follow for approx 10 miles. Look for FWB boat ramp signs on your right. Follow Freshwater Bay road to the shore.

(Pre-dam removal) Elwha River mouth on a stormy day, looking east.

Learn more about my book Kayaking Puget Sound and the San Juans, 60 Trips. I also offer SUP and Kayak lessons available throughout the year at Salmon Bay Paddle. Questions about paddling on the Salish Sea, give me a holler anytime at salmonbaypaddle@gmail.com or 206-465-7167

Support the Washington Water Trails Association and the Cascadia Marine Trail. The wwta works to create and protect access for paddlers on Puget Sound as well as provide an extensive network of over 60 paddle-in camping sites - www.wwta.org